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Failure Atlas

Failure modes and prevention principles

How architectural sheet metal fails, what causes it, and the design and installation principles that prevent it. These are general failure modes - not documented case studies of particular buildings.

Oil-canning

What causes it

  • Material too thin for the width of the flat face.
  • Too little allowance for thermal expansion - a panel restrained against movement bows.
  • Wide, flat, unbroken faces with nothing to stiffen them.

How it is prevented

  • Use a heavier gauge on wide faces.
  • Break up the flat face with stiffening beads, ribs or striations.
  • Limit unbroken flat width - narrower panels or a centre break.
Read the full explanation

Oil-canning is the visible waviness or "bowing" of a flat metal panel surface — an optical/cosmetic phenomenon caused by minor stresses in the material (from forming, handling, or thermal cycling) that flat sheet metal is naturally prone to displaying, especially on wide, unribbed panel faces under certain lighting angles. It is not usually a structural or water-tightness defect, but it is a common source of complaint on flat coping, fascia, and wall panel work. Causes: insufficient gauge for the panel width (thinner material shows waviness more readily), inadequate allowance for thermal expansion (a panel fighting against restrained movement will bow), and simply wide, flat, unbroken panel faces with nothing to interrupt the eye or add stiffness. Prevention: use a heavier gauge for wide panels, add stiffening beaks/ribs/striations to break up the flat face and add rigidity, and limit unbroken flat panel width (narrower panels or panels with a center break/rib are far less prone to visible oil-canning than a single wide flat face of the same material).

Wind uplift at copings and gravel stops

What causes it

  • Missing or under-spaced concealed cleats, or cleats with too little hook engagement.
  • Fasteners and cleats sized for field-zone pressure on an edge that sits in a corner or perimeter zone.
  • A gravel stop without a solid, anchored continuous nailer behind its flange.
  • A gravel stop fastened but not stripped in with the roofing membrane.

How it is prevented

  • Cleat the edge continuously, or at the spacing the tested system prints, with full hook engagement.
  • Size the edge for the pressure of the zone it actually sits in.
  • Fasten into a solid, anchored nailer and strip the flange in with the membrane.

Edge securement and joint gaps, as the Drexel ES-1 guides print them

  • Installation Guide for Snap Coping-Max/Max-C, Step 1: Installing Segmented Galvanized Cleat: “Additional Cleats to be installed no greater than 40" on center.”
  • Installation Guide for Snap Coping-Max/Max-C, Step 1: Installing Segmented Galvanized Cleat: “Attach the Cleat using #10-13x1-1/2" S.S. Panhead Woodscrews provided into each pre-punched hole.”
  • Installation Guide for Snap Coping-Max/Max-C, Step 4: Installing Snap Coping-Max End Caps/Terms: “End Caps and End Terms must be restrained from moving by securing with fasteners through the roof side leg.”
  • Econo Coping LT Installation Guide, Step 1: Installing 24ga Galvanized Cleat: “Attach the Cleat using 1-1/4" S.S. Ring Shank Nails provided, into each pre-punched hole.”
  • Econo Coping LT Installation Guide, Step 1: Installing 24ga Galvanized Cleat: “When within 3'- 0" of corners, attach Cleat with 1-1/4" S.S. Ring Shank Nails at 6" on center.”
  • Econo Coping LT Installation Guide, Step 2: Installing Econo Coping Miters: “screw the roof side leg of the Miter with #9-13x1-1/2" S.S. Washered Screws provided, at 12" on center.”
  • Econo Coping LT Installation Guide, Step 3: Installing Econo Coping Straight Lengths: “screw the roof side leg of the Coping with #9-13x1-1/2" S.S. Washered Screws provided at 12" on center.”
  • Econo Coping LT Installation Guide, Step 4: Installing Econo Coping End Caps/Terms: “End Caps and End Terms must be restrained from moving by securing with a minimum of (2) #9-13x1-1/2" S.S. Washered Screws through the roof side leg.”
  • Econo Coping Installation Guide, Step 1: Installing 22ga Galvanized Cleat: “Attach the Cleat using 1-1/4" S.S. Ring Shank Nails provided, into each pre-punched hole.”
  • Econo Coping Installation Guide, Step 1: Installing 22ga Galvanized Cleat: “When within 3'- 0" of corners, attach Cleat with 1-1/4" S.S. Ring Shank Nails at 6" on center.”
  • Econo Coping Installation Guide, Step 2: Installing Econo Coping Miters: “screw the roof side leg of the Miter with #9-13x1-1/2" S.S. Washered Screws provided at 12" on center.”
  • Econo Coping Installation Guide, Step 3: Installing Econo Coping Straight Lengths: “screw the roof side leg of the Coping with #9-13x1-1/2" S.S. Washered Screws provided, at 12" on center.”
  • Econo Coping Installation Guide, Step 4: Installing Econo Coping End Caps/Terms: “End Caps and End Terms must be restrained from moving by securing with a minimum of (2) #9-13x1-1/2" S.S. Washered Screws through the roof side leg.”
  • Installation Guide for Fascia Cover LT, Step 1: Installing 22GA Galvanized Cleat: “screw through the pre-punched face holes with #10-13x1" S.S. Panhead Woodscrews provided.”
  • Installation Guide for Fascia Cover LT, Step 4: Installing Fascia Cover LT Straight Lengths: “Allow 1/8" Gap between Fascia Cover LT lengths for thermal expansion.”
  • Installation Guide For Gravel Stop, Step 1: Installing 22GA Galvanized Cleat: “nail through the pre-punched holes with 1-1/4" S.S. Ring Shank Nails provided.”
  • Installation Guide For Gravel Stop, Step 5: Installing Gravel Stop Straight Lengths: “Allow 1/4" Gap between Gravel Stop lengths for thermal expansion.”
  • Installation Guide for Econo Gravel Stop, Step 1: Installing 24GA Galvanized Cleat: “nail through the pre-punched holes with 1-1/4" S.S. Ring Shank Nails provided.”
  • Installation Guide for Econo Gravel Stop, Step 2: Econo Gravel Stop Miters: “Fasten with 1-1/4" S.S. Ring Shank nails provided at 12" on center maximum.”
  • Installation Guide for Econo Gravel Stop, Step 3: Installing Econo Gravel Stop End Caps & Terms: “Fasten with 1-1/4" S.S. Ring Shank Nails provided at 12" on center maximum.”
  • Installation Guide for Econo Gravel Stop, Step 4: Installing Econo Gravel Stop Straight Lengths: “Fasten with 1-1/4" S.S. Ring Shank Nails provided at 12" on center maximum.”
  • Installation Guide for Econo Gravel Stop, Step 4: Installing Econo Gravel Stop Straight Lengths: “Allow 1/8" Gap between Econo Gravel Stop lengths for thermal expansion.”
  • Drip Edge LT Installation Guide, Step 1: Installing 24ga Galvanized Cleat: “nail through the pre-punched holes with 1-1/4" S.S. Ring Shank Nails provided.”
  • Drip Edge LT Installation Guide, Step 2: Installing Drip Edge Miters: “Fasten with 1-1/4" S.S. Ring Shank Nails provided into each pre-punched hole.”
  • Drip Edge LT Installation Guide, Step 3: Installing Drip Edge End Caps/Terms: “Fasten with 1-1/4" S.S. Ring Shank Nails provided, in each pre-punched hole.”
  • Drip Edge LT Installation Guide, Step 4: Installing Drip Edge Straight Lengths: “Fasten with 1-1/4" S.S. Ring Shank Nails provided, in each pre-punched hole.”
  • Drip Edge LT Installation Guide, Step 4: Installing Drip Edge Straight Lengths: “Allow 1/4" Gap between Drip Edge lengths for thermal expansion.”
  • Drip Edge Installation Guide, Step 1: Installing 22ga Galvanized Cleat: “nail through the pre-punched holes with 1-1/4" S.S. Ring Shank Nails provided.”
  • Drip Edge Installation Guide, Step 2: Installing Drip Edge Miters: “Fasten with 1-1/4" S.S. Ring Shank Nails provided into each pre-punched hole.”
  • Drip Edge Installation Guide, Step 3: Installing Drip Edge End Caps/Terms: “Fasten with 1-1/4" S.S. Ring Shank Nails provided, in each pre-punched hole.”
  • Drip Edge Installation Guide, Step 4: Installing Drip Edge Straight Lengths: “Fasten with 1-1/4" S.S. Ring Shank Nails provided, in each pre-punched hole.”
  • Drip Edge Installation Guide, Step 4: Installing Drip Edge Straight Lengths: “Allow 1/4" Gap between Drip Edge lengths for thermal expansion.”
Read the full explanation

Coping cap wind uplift failures most commonly trace back to missing or under-spaced concealed cleats, cleats with insufficient hook/engagement depth that release under negative pressure, or fasteners/cleats sized for field-zone wind pressure when the coping actually sits in a higher-pressure corner or perimeter zone per ASCE 7/SMACNA. Once a section releases at one point, wind can get underneath and progressively peel back adjacent sections. Gravel stop wind uplift failures commonly result from an inadequate or missing continuous nailer (the sheet metal alone, without a solid anchored nailer behind the fastening flange, cannot resist real uplift loads), or missing/insufficient stripping plies (the roofing membrane layers that tie the gravel stop's flange into the roof system) — a gravel stop that is only mechanically fastened without being properly stripped-in by the membrane is vulnerable to both wind uplift and water infiltration at the flange edge.

Corrosion - galvanic, crevice and pitting

What causes it

  • Dissimilar metals in contact, or connected by runoff, with moisture present.
  • Tight, poorly drained gaps - under washers, in unsealed laps, behind debris - that hold water.
  • Chlorides (salt air, de-icing salt) breaking down the passive layer of stainless steel at points.

How it is prevented

  • Isolate dissimilar metals physically; replace the corroded, less noble part if damage has started.
  • Re-detail a crevice so it drains and dries, or seal it fully - never half-seal it.
  • Use a more chloride-resistant grade (316 over 304) in marine exposure, and clean off chloride deposits.

Dissimilar metals - the Design Center's screening

  • Copper + Galvalume: Avoid. Copper has a very severe corrosive effect on steel and on zinc or aluminum-zinc coatings. Do not let them touch. Do not let water from copper drain onto the coated steel - runoff alone causes corrosion.
  • Copper + Anodized Aluminum: Avoid. Copper has a very severe corrosive effect on aluminum. Do not let them touch. Do not let water from copper drain onto aluminum.
  • Galvanized Steel + Anodized Aluminum: Caution. A zinc-coated part on aluminum corrodes quickly (the zinc is consumed); an aluminum part on zinc-coated steel poses no problem. Check which metal is the small part.
  • Copper + Stainless Steel: Compatible. Copper performs well in contact with stainless steel.

Separation methods the Metal Construction Association bulletin names:

  • Separate the metals with a bituminous membrane or a coating of sufficient thickness on the more noble metal; ordinary prepainted finishes usually do not qualify.
  • Use 304 or 316L stainless fasteners as exposure requires (316L as a minimum in marine or severe industrial settings).
  • Do not drain copper-bearing water (copper roofs, HVAC condensate, treated wood) onto zinc, aluminum or zinc-coated steel.
  • Galvanic charts alone are not enough: oxide layers change behaviour. Confirm with the metal manufacturer.
Read the full explanation

Galvanic corrosion occurs when dissimilar metals are in contact (or connected by runoff) in the presence of moisture — see Installation Standards above for the galvanic series and isolation requirements; remediation requires physically isolating the metals and, if damage has already occurred, replacing the corroded (less-noble) component. Crevice corrosion occurs in tight, poorly drained gaps — under washers, in overlapped-but-unsealed laps, behind debris buildup — where moisture becomes trapped and stagnant, creating a locally aggressive corrosion cell even on a metal that performs fine in open exposure; remediation involves opening/re-detailing the crevice to drain and dry, or sealing it fully so moisture can't enter at all (a half-measure that lets water in but not out is worse than either extreme). Pitting corrosion is localized, deep, small-diameter attack typically seen on stainless steel in chloride-rich environments (coastal salt air, deicing salt exposure) where the passive oxide layer breaks down at isolated points; remediation includes upgrading to a higher-chloride-resistant grade (316 over 304) in marine exposure and more frequent cleaning to remove chloride deposits before they concentrate.

Fatigue cracking

What causes it

  • Daily and seasonal thermal cycling concentrated at one seam, fastener or bend where the detail gave no expansion relief.
  • Continuous low-amplitude vibration from rooftop equipment carried into rigid flashing.

How it is prevented

  • Provide expansion relief so movement is not concentrated at one point.
  • Isolate vibrating equipment from rigid flashing and curb work with resilient mounts or slip joints.
Read the full explanation

Fatigue cracking in sheet metal flashing and roofing develops from repeated cyclic stress rather than a single overload event — most commonly from thermal cycling (daily and seasonal expansion/contraction) at a location where the detail did not provide adequate expansion relief, concentrating the movement stress at one seam, fastener, or bend repeatedly until the metal work-hardens and cracks. Vibration-driven fatigue occurs near mechanical equipment (rooftop units, generators, fans) where flashing or curb-adjacent trim is subjected to continuous low-amplitude vibration rather than thermal cycling — this calls for isolation (resilient mounts, slip joints) between the vibrating equipment and the rigid flashing/curb work, rather than a rigid connection that transmits the vibration directly into the metal.

Ponding

What causes it

  • Too little slope in the design, or slope lost as the structure settles or deflects.
  • Blocked or undersized drains, scuppers or gutters.
  • Failed expansion joints or seams that form a dam or low spot.

How it is prevented

  • Keep drainage paths clear - the most common fix.
  • Redirect flow from a chronic low spot with tapered insulation or crickets.
  • Replace a drainage component that is undersized for the rainfall.
Read the full explanation

Ponding water on a low-slope roof or within a drainage component (gutter, valley, coping, through-wall flashing) accelerates membrane and metal degradation, adds structural dead load, and increases the risk of leaks finding their way through any small defect since standing water has time and hydrostatic pressure a quickly-shedding roof does not. Common causes: insufficient slope built into the original design or lost over time as the structure settles/deflects; blocked or undersized drains, scuppers, or gutters (debris, ice, or simple under-capacity for the actual rainfall); and failed expansion joints or seams that create a low spot or dam where water collects instead of continuing to flow. Remediation ranges from cleaning/unblocking drainage paths (the simplest and most common actual fix), to adding tapered insulation or crickets to redirect flow away from a chronic low spot, to replacing an undersized drainage component entirely when the underlying cause is capacity rather than a blockage or defect.

Sealant failure

What causes it

  • The wrong product for the substrate - acetoxy-cure silicone on copper, or a sealant not rated for the joint movement.
  • Poor joint design: no backer rod, the wrong width-to-depth ratio, or three-sided adhesion.
  • Normal UV breakdown at the end of the sealant service life.

How it is prevented

  • Match the sealant chemistry to the metal and its movement range.
  • Design the joint with a backer rod and the right proportions so the sealant can flex.
  • Plan inspection and replacement; remove failed sealant completely before resealing.
Read the full explanation

The most common sealant failure is simply the wrong product for the substrate — most notably acetoxy-cure silicone on copper (see Joint Protection above), but also using a sealant not rated for the specific joint's expected movement range. Improper joint design (no backing rod, incorrect width-to-depth ratio, three-sided adhesion trapping the sealant so it cannot flex) causes even a correctly chosen sealant to tear or debond prematurely under normal thermal movement. UV degradation is a normal end-of-service-life failure mode for most sealants (breakdown, cracking, and loss of elasticity from prolonged sun exposure) — expected service life varies by product (a decade or more for quality polyurethane/silicone in a properly designed joint) and periodic inspection/replacement should be planned rather than treating sealant as a permanent, install-once component. Remediation always starts with removing the failed sealant completely and re-preparing the joint (correct backing rod, clean bonding surfaces) rather than tooling a fresh bead over failed material.

Sources: the AFS Division 7 knowledge base, the Metal Construction Association bulletin Dissimilar Metal Corrosion in Roofing Installations (as used by the Design Center's Thermal tool), and Drexel Metals' ES-1 installation guides. The project's engineer of record and specifications govern every design decision.