Custom architectural sheet metal for Burnet projects

On a metal roof and wall the common pieces are eave trim or drip edge, rake or gable trim, ridge cap, sidewall and endwall flashing, valley flashing, transition flashing, inside and outside corners, J-channel, base trim, and trim around doors and windows. Every one of them can be made to custom sizes, and any of them can be drawn in FlashDraft.

Match it to the roof. Steel drip edge is stiffer and suits steel roofs and most shingle roofs; aluminum suits aluminum roofs and does not rust. Do not let bare aluminum touch wet concrete or copper. We bend drip edge in both.

It depends on the roof. On a sloped roof it is drip edge or eave trim along the bottom and rake trim up the gable ends. On a flat roof it is usually a gravel stop or a fascia system, and on a parapet wall it is coping.

Large hail can dent metal panels and trim, and the lighter the gauge, the easier it dents. Whether a dent is only cosmetic or real damage is a call for your roofer and insurer. Burnet has seen big hail: a 5-inch stone was measured at the airport in May 2011. Check an address in HailView before you bid a re-roof.^[12,13]

Often, yes. A damaged length can be cut out and a new piece spliced in, as long as the new piece has the same profile and finish as the gutter on the building. Send a photo of the gutter end with one measurement through Photo to Quote and we can make the matching section.

L trim, also called angle trim, is a two-sided piece bent at a right angle. It is used to finish corners, edges and the joint where a panel meets another surface. It can be made in any leg sizes.

Eave trim runs along the low edge of the roof, where water runs off, and is shaped to throw that water clear of the fascia or into the gutter. Rake trim runs up the sloped gable ends and covers the panel edge so wind cannot get under it. They are different shapes, so order them as separate pieces.

Yes. Rake trim and gable trim are two names for the piece that caps the sloped edge at the gable end of a roof. Some suppliers also call it gable flashing.

Base trim, sometimes called a base angle or rat guard. It closes the gap where the wall panels stop above the slab, keeps pests and wind-driven water out, and gives the bottom of the wall a clean, even edge.

In roofing they mean nearly the same thing: a cover over the top of a wall. Coping is the usual name for the cap on a parapet. Capping is a looser word that also covers ridge caps and the caps on posts and low walls.

It is the metal cap, also called coping, that covers the top of a parapet wall. It sheds water to both sides, has a drip on each face held off the wall, and is held down by a cleat so wind cannot lift it. On stone walls like those around the Burnet square, it is formed to the wall's measured width.

Wet mortar and concrete are alkaline, and bare aluminum corrodes when it sits against them. On masonry, use a metal that tolerates that contact, such as stainless steel or copper, or a coated metal with a separation layer. Ask us which metal fits your wall.

Use two pieces that overlap. Base flashing turns up the wall from the roof, and counterflashing comes down from the wall over it, fixed into a reglet or behind the siding. Water running down the wall goes over the joint instead of into it, and the roof can be replaced later without tearing into the wall.

Through-wall flashing runs into a masonry wall and catches water that gets behind the outer face of brick or stone, then sends it back out of the wall through weeps. Without it, that water soaks into the wall and the structure behind it.

Cap flashing. It is the piece that comes down from a wall or chimney and laps over the base flashing that turns up from the roof. Where it is set into a groove cut in masonry, the receiver it sits in is called a reglet.

Neither is better for every job. Galvalume is steel with an aluminum-zinc coating and is usually left bare, which suits barns, shops and other metal buildings. Painted steel adds a color coat over a metallic coating for looks and extra protection. Match the trim to the panels you are using.

On a building meant to last, often yes: copper lasts a long time, needs no paint and weathers to a natural patina. It costs more than steel, and rain that runs off copper will corrode galvanized or Galvalume metal below it, so keep the two apart.

For a short piece, hand seamers can make a simple bend. For long pieces, several bends, or hems that have to be straight, a brake is the right tool, and a shop brake keeps every piece in a run the same. You can draw the profile in FlashDraft and have it bent for you.

A brake clamps a sheet and folds it along a sharp, even crease, so every bend in a profile comes out straight and at the angle you set. Shop brakes and folders handle long lengths and heavier gauges than a job-site brake.